Видео

Hi. Probably too low temperature of the mould for the alloy you are using. For pure lead, the temperature must be higher. If you are using those for K1, I would suggest that you add 1 - 2% of antimony. If you do so, the melting point will get lower lower and you will get better casts. Also, K1 (any GK1) prefer harder alloys because they shoot out of the magazine. They will be more accurate and you will also get less fouling on the forcing cone (less cleaning of the barrel).

@@gregorkamensek3923 Thanks for your feedback.

Hi. Hm, I compared to my Vevor but AEA was slower in my case... Regarding heat, I also filled Mora with 1100 cc bottle few times. It took about 10 minutes and the temperature was manageable, I could still hold the cylinder on the compressor... I forgot the actual temperature. Considering that higher temperature with same relative humidity air has more (absolute) moisture inside, you could say that but in that case, the temperature difference between the compressed air and the cylinder and all hoses is higher, so more of that moisture should condense and stay there... So I am not sure if it is in fact worse...

Interesting that’s your vevor seems faster. Could be I need to open it up and clean it. Bin using it for year now and also fill my 2ltr bottle with it. Kind of abuse it🤣. But it take it very well.

@@AntonVansteenis-ro7ez Don't know. Maybe. Maybe I will do a speed comparison. Maybe it just seemed faster...

Well, that is not the final configuration of the gun. I will get those numbers not that I finally have the full production version with correct bottles...

You mean taking apart the trigger mechanism ?

Yeah, that was my first mod... I actually replaced the ball bearing with rod that completely locks the leaver but it is not that good solution, it only works up to a certain power point...

How did you put a Rod ?

Hi. Definitely don't overfill for the purpose of getting more power. Although airguns have safety margin, it is there for a reason. If you got more power with higher pressure, this means that you have already made some mods to the spring / hammer. The next step is to have someone make you a bigger transfer port. I believe the stock version is 6 mm hole. If you put it a 9 mm hole, then you will get more power. But please maker sure that you are combatable doing this or have someone who know what he is doing to make it for you and install it. High pressure is very dangerous so please be safe.

Yeah, I know. But personally, I don't like this stock so I converted mine and made a new stock: ruclips.net/video/vX2dFDnfbVo/видео.html

Hi. The o-rings are 6x1.5mm. I suggest you get them in NBR 90 to prolong their life span. The reason why the o-rings are failing so fast is because the rifle does not have any locking mechanism. If you increase power, the o-rings will fail even faster. Making locking mechanism is a very complex thing as you can see in the video unfortunately. If you still want to increase power, the only simple way is to increase hammer spring tension or adding weight to the hammer or both. When you do this, it might happen that the lever will open during the shot and you will get burst of air back through the feeding port.

Hm, interesting. My Vevor is faster than AEA...

Hi. I noticed that the GK1 nipple is slightly longer and has thicker narrow part. I can't get the grey connector to on it either. But the one that Wolfiek provides is OK. That is why I used the additional hose in the video but the grey connector also has issues with some other nipples because it is to big in diameter... From what I understand, the compressor comes only with grey connector but Wolfiek provides you with this additional adapter because they realize that this will be an issue for many users... If you haven't bougth from them, then just but this adapter to solve the issue.

@gregorkamensek3923 Thanks for your reply, Gregor. Wanted to confirm that it is not only mine with that issue. Yes, I bought from them and have both connectors.

@@ivaylodimitrov6258 Ah, OK, then you just need to use the brass connector instead of the grey one. The brass connector can take up to 350 bars so no worries there.

Yp

Exactly!

Why does it mean short life span? Perhaps they have new tech

@@fizzleshizzle8314 Just common sense I would say. AEA PCP's are known for their low quality, leaks, blowing o-rings, jams etc. People started to accept this, but it's not normal. If the compresors are made with the same devotion, then I say nope.

@@jbhk7977 the compressor i bet is gonnna blow up and become a law suit...

Hi. Thank you both for the input. I intend to make another video about the reliability.

LOL. The compressor is actually quieter than most, it sounds like an only single piston tractor :) But the fans are really loud.

Thanks for sharing :)

ruclips.net/video/4vxyAASkJW8/видео.html

Hi. I have been getting a lot of comments about dry filter and I see there is a lot of misconceptions about this topic, so I will try to make a video about it... The last time I got an adaptor was more than 5 years ago, but you can ask Wolfiek for one that is guarantee to mate with GK1 probe. BTW: do you have an older K1 probe or a newer K1 or GK1?

@@gregorkamensek3923 new GK1. I have a GX Pump CS4i 400 Bar Compressor and the hose quick connect is leaking air with the Huben GK1 Fill Probe. All Fill Probes from other Rifles working fine

@@ThePredator2k The old one had problems with the ring that the ring where the ball bearings latch was too short. They fixed this with new version but apparently the sleeve (or the waist) is too big diameter and the ball bearing cannot move inward enough for "grey" connector to latch. I have many other foster connectors and they all latch perfectly on it but not this high pressure "grey" one... Apparently, you have the same problem with connector on GX Pump.

@@gregorkamensek3923 it seems so

Hi. Is the air blowing only when you take a shot? Or is this a leak?

You can also send me an email or contact me through my channel email contact...

@@gregorkamensek3923 only when you take a shot. I have read there is seals on the top of the transfer port that are square.

@@walkwood92gt418 Hi. There are not square seals, all seals are standard (metric) o-rings you can buy anywhere. The shape of the TP is square but you put a standard o-ring there and it will adapt to the shape. But before you do that, check your pellet pusher position. It is possible that you have it too far out (pushing the pellet too much forward). In that case, it is possible that the o-ring of the pellet pusher comes on the TP position and you get blowback...

Thank you :)

It is completely the same as on GK1... You only have additional for the first stage length on the blade of the trigger.

It is very easy, but it does take a little longer than on Prophet/Priest as there are more mounting points.

I assume you are talking about fitting aftermarket regulator. Yes, the power wheel will stil work but the prover will be limited due to reduced pressure and the size of the plenum. Also, the shot count will be lower.

Hi. I cannot give any advice, I never tested the Rattler...

What do you mean by "unbridle" ?

@@gregorkamensek3923 weapon limited to delivery for certain countries to 20 joules! can I get the power level!! settings?! thanks

@@richardbordereau3568 Yes, you can. I suggest you address RTI with the question how...

Yes, it is a lovely pistol and the engineering is incredible. BTW: the high pressure cylinder is actually titanium and only has carbon imitation wrap.

I would say about 1 - 1.5 revolution for max power. Anything more would just waist air. But not all power adjusting screws are the same, so it is best to test and see what works best

Hi. I have seen quite a few 3d printed custom handles/ grips but no wood. But the stock grips on my GK1 are not artificially finished it is just that they are mad of relatively generic wood. As I am sure you are aware best looking wooden handles come from wood (most cases walnut) that does not have good conditions from growth and from the near root part of the tree... I think that if anyone made some custom aftermarket beautiful grips, you might have a good market for them.

It is a little hard to explain without visual presentation but I will give it a try. The valve is pressure assisted, it extracts and contracts (it si made out of two parts). This is to reduce stress on the trigger sear, so it does not have to hold the full pressure force to keep it closed, as well as for simplifying the sealing of the valve. In other words, the pressure is at the same time traying to close the front part of the valve and open the rear part. The force on the rear part is slightly greater (slightly bigger surface area) and the trigger only need to hold this portion of the force as the rear part presses directly to what Huben calls "hammer" (although this is not really a hammer because it does not hit anything) which is connected to the trigger sear that prevents it from moving back. To return the valve + hammer back forward after the shot, there is a spring in the back. So the valve will only be able to fire once the force caused by the pressure is high enough to overcome the force of the already pulled sear friction and the spring. This tipping point is somewhere just below 100 bars. If you are just under this pressure, you will actually release the hammer by pulling on the sear, but the pistol will not fire as the valve still does not have enough force on it to fire. Once the sear is down, the hammer prevents it from returning to its lock position as the hammer has already moved slightly to prevent it from locking. Since the safety is designed to lock the sear and with it the hammer (and this is the best way to make this action design as safe as possible), you cannot return it back to safe. So not you are in a state with pressed trigger but the gun did not fire. There are two possible outcomes when the pistol is in this state; if the pressure increases (either because the air heated or because you filled the pistol back up), it will automatically fire one time when the pressure reaches the threshold; if the pressure decreases (for example if you bleed the pistol), the trigger will be able to rese and it will be locked again and it will also be possible to put the pistol back on safe. I hope this long explanation was effective :)

Don't know, I haven't tested VTZ yet...

Yes, of course. But the pressure must be very low and the dwell time set to almost minimum.

The RPB barrels (.22 and .25) have twist 600mm and 650mm. They are made by LW according to RTI specifications.

@@gregorkamensek3923 Hello, I think you forgot to mention the twist rate. :)

It is standard LW airgun 9 mm barrel with 1/16" twist

Jp

At the moment is seems like it. RPB is only in .22 and .25 at the moment.

@@gregorkamensek3923 IU hope they can do something for us pea shooters. The new LW barrels for daystate seem promising hough not sure if they can shoot heavy 4.5mm slugs with style

@@pliashmuldba It has been a while since I tested any 4.5 mm barrels, maybe is it time to do so :)

@@gregorkamensek3923 I am currently using a 700 mm long ( CZub barrel ) Epic airguns Two, it seem to favor 16 grain Zan it can also shoot 20 grain but at slower speeds giving it the same hitting force as 16 grain at higher speed. I think the small caliber need a little faster twist rate on the rifling, at least to be able to handle the heavier stuff.

@@pliashmuldba Yes, longer slugs would defiantly require faster twist in 4.5 than the conventional airgun barrels have...

I have heard that some people have done it. It is possible but requires quite some custom work...

@@gregorkamensek3923 i think it’s a bit easier on the newer model don’t you think?

@@MAAAH1581 Yes, much easier. But you need a pilot pin to properly align the magazine to the barrel...

@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you so much for helping i appreciate that, you are an idol for huben k1 lovers 💐